With the tool line up the clutch disc in the pilot hole. Mine snapped not in the middle of the cable itself, but at the wear point, where the slotted lever of the clutch pedal attaches to the clevis section of the clutch cable assembly, under the dash. Well, this vehicle has a fairly easy clutch to replace. You will need a socket wrench to get the cylinder off, one with an extension so you can get the socket to the bolts, they're 14mm I believe, it helps to remove the reservoir as well, though I suggest bleeding the line before you do. Remove pressure plate in criss cross pattern. If fluid spills, wipe up immediately and wash the affected area with water. The metal next to the camera is the caliper.
If you unbolt the trans mount it will make it easier to get out. When you replace the axle shaft nut, be sure you use a new cotter pin. Have your Helper press the clutch pedal a few times, then hold it to the floor. There are two or three bolts that hold it on. Pressure plate to flywheel torque specs are 16-22ft lbs Answer. I have a 2008 spec v that I bought about 7 months ago with 10,000 miles.
Then remove the transmission housing bolts 3, 4 and 5. Most likely not good because of moisture? The tranny fluid is still the 2 bolts they were talking about in the picture correct which is gear oil? Take note of how it routes between these tubes, and carefully pull the cable out. To install the new cable, do everything in reverse. Ha it's your lucky day, I just redid the entire clutch system for my 86 Nissan. Depending on the type of engine that your Nissan has, the location may be different. It depends if it'an auto or manual.
I haven't noticed a clutch pedal drop and I've never really noticed the brake pedal lose pressure either. However you have to get a transmission fluid funnel, also you need to ensure that you check it correctly. First you will need to get under the dashboard and disengage the pedal from the cylinder, you will see a bar attached to the pedal by a pin which goes through the pedal and the bar. The tranny fluid is still the 2 bolts they were talking about in the picture correct which is gear oil? It will be obvious, on the far right upper corner of the firewall. Over time, he theorizes that the fluid may be boiling creating vapours and it's the vapours that we're seeing on the reservoir pooling up. Now find where the cable goes through the firewall, from the engine side.
After I installed my clutch cable I had to go back about a week later and adjust the clutch tighten the cable because it appeared the cable had stretch a little from brand new to broken in condition. Course, they didn't have in stock and had to wait 3 days to get it. Working from the inside of the car remove the clevis pin and disconnect the cable from the clutch pedal arm. Now that I think of it, every 30k miles or so wouldn't be a bad time to change it. Release the pedal and press it again and open and close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder again. If you cut the line attached to the master cylinder you'll need to unscrew the other end of the line from the hub it's attached to on the right side of the car that hooks up with the line to the slave cylinder.
My 12mm bolt came out fine, but during the reinstall. I also have heard folks complain about aftermarket cable assemblies. Now unhook the fork at the other end of the cable from the pedal I 'skipped' this step because my cable had broken. The best probably only way to access this is to kind of reach over the pedal bracket on the left away from the other pedals side. Now start the six pressure plate bolts.
Clean any oil or rust preventative off the face of the pressure plate. Also how long does brake fluid last in a sealed container? It's darn hard to see, but it's up there. I didn't realize this and removed the fork after part 1, but that's unnecessary though not difficult. That said, I shall keep you guys posted! With a new clutch, am sure you would have less exposed threads, as the disc will be new, and thicker, so you won't be able to thread up the starwheel quite so far. You may need to twist and turn the transmission to get the splines of the input shaft to line up with the splines of the clutch disc. Now, remove the front wheels and remove the large axle nut from the end of the axle shaft. Push the axle shaft in.
For this problem, I've seen 2011 and 2012 Spec-Vs with the same symptoms. I think dot 4 just has a higher heat tolerance. Vehicle must be level, warmed up, and running. While holding the tool and clutch disc in position, tighten the pressure plat bolts in a diagonal pattern one turn at a time. One helpful hint when filling the side filler, attach a small piece of hose to the tapered tip of the fluid bottle and squeeze the bottle to force the fluid into the filler.
The clutch fluid is the same as the brake fluid which is why if I did I would want new fluid. I had to recline both seats, and lie on my back with my head down near the pedals. Undo this one and fill the case til the oil pours out. Fill the clutch master cylinder with fl … uid and then get under the Vehicle. Once this is done, you are almost home. Check the clutch fluid level in the reservoir manual transmissions only. Some said dot 4 fluid if you flush all of the dot 3 out.
Also how long does brake fluid last in a sealed container? The slave cylinder is bolted to the transmission, unbolt it and disconnect the hose attached to it. Put the tool through the clutch disc and, with the pressure plate, put it into position. In some Nissan Pickups of that year, the fan clutch is actually integrated with the water pump as an assembly. There's a master cylinder underneath the hood behind the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. It goes into a 'diamond' shaped metal housing, held by 2 12mm nuts, and then to the pedal.