Then all the fancy carpeting with no place to wipe your feet. Loots-42 Time to get it on a scanner and see what is going on. I had a leak and fixed, replaced vacuume lines, Replaced purge valve, checked valve in the back under the spare tire and tested good, checked charcoal canister not plugged, replaced pressure sensor, replaced gas cap, pulled out fuel pump and made shure the rubber gasket was sealing. I was able to change mine on my 98 Jimmy without dropping the tank. The control system pressure sensor is not used to control the engine system. Do I have to drop the tank to easily get at the sensor? First thing to do is make sure the gas cap is good and tightened properly. Thanks nick, i believe i just about tryed everything, i checked all the lines and hoses for leaks, no damaged from tank to canister, if thats the one mounted behind rear fender well right side visual check for any bad hoses, or tubing to engine, droped tank to get to connector, no visual cgreen gooo, or corrosion, untaped all wires, peeled of all heatshrink, and wires look as good as the day i put in new pump module.
The information supplied by the fuel tank pressure sensor to the Engine Control Module is used in order to detect vacuum decay or an excessive vacuum during the diagnostic routine. Here are some things to check first Check for an open in the 5 V reference circuit. Or even the vent valve, on my vehicle, the purge valve is located on top of the engine where it can dry out, but some stupid idiot mounted that vent valve clear back at the tank with the canister, must have been smoking crack at the time or just plain stupid where the canister and the vent valve is subject to all that salt crap they put on the roads. If during service, that sensor or harness was damaged, you can get that code. It may be attached to the fuel tank or it may be separate from the fuel tank with hoses running to the fuel pump at the fuel tank. The manual indicates it is a fault with the emission control system.
The vacuum line under the manifold is something I haven't checked yet. Newer cars have system which prevent both Evaporative Emissions and harmful Exhaust Emissions. One thing I'd double check is the gas cap. There isn't a quick way to diagnose your evap system. Very impressive use of fossil fuel. Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor on the top rear of the tank? If the harness is ok, replace the sensor. However there is alot of air in the fuel line.
He does not remember disconecting or connecting this sensor at all. If you are getting spark and fuel, then you may have a bad sensor somewhere but the car should be put on diagnostic scanner to pinpoint exact problem location. Here's what I did: I removed the vent valve and found it choked with a fine dust. I have no idea were the charchol tank is at, i dont see it under the hood anywere. The code P0452 is often be associated with damaged or corroded wiring or a failed or unplugged sensor. What are the common causes of code P0452? Assuming that this individual knows what they are talking about, they should also be able to give you a ballpark figure of what it will take dollarwise to get it fixed. Let us know if that fixes yours.
If you don't find any obvious damage to the harness or connector, you will need a scan tool to monitor data while moving the harness. Turn up your sound system if your hooked up from your computer to a sub-woofer. He only remembers the fuel pump connector been removed and plugged in back. I was able to change mine on my 98 Jimmy without dropping the tank. Found out later they moved all their cars to our mall north of town trying to sell them. If you do not … have a 4way they sell adapters which are placed underneath the oil filter with a spot where you can screw on the oil line.
You can test the sensor voltage either with a or with a multimeter. A few miles down the road it died. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I think it would be the lower, when you say the upper are you talking about the one below the air intake plenum? After towing it home and squirting a little starting fluid into the intake it started and seemed to run ok. At this time, that pressure switch should be showing a minor vacuum. It is a Culligan system. Your vehicle is not much different, but the code is stored in flashram much like your digital camera, claim the life of retaining code in a flashram is ten years, you are already past that stage, could be your code is corrupted. The connector may also be damaged inside.
Does the tank need to be totally removed? But that is the way our government is, picking on the insignificant stuff. I cleared the code and it came back instantly, now a week later code is still there, wont go away so I am going to order that fuel tank pressure sensor. You can manually check out the hardware, vent and purge valves sealing properly when closed, solenoids for operation, pressure sensor for accuracy, canister not blocked, wiring and connections all good and find nothing wrong. Trace the wiring from the sensor back to determine if there are any breaks swollen spots on the wiring insulation that can indicate corrosion inside the wire. Do I have to drop the tank down to do the various tests? Another thought for those who were testing everything and the electronics were testing good, maybe the stick is just that, a stick maybe you really do have a high pressure under those specific running conditions that tripped the sensor, but once the car is back to idle, or off it doesn't, which may lead me to think a possible evap vent solenoid or vent circuit error, or even maybe a clogged vent line on the sending unit? On some vehicles the red brake light will come on too. There's definitely a huge loss of power when this happens and if I let off the gas for a few seconds it'll subside and the truck will finally upshift as soon as I give it some gas again.
Posted on Jan 28, 2011 The 452 is low input and the 453 is high input. I just can't get enough of seeing that video. Get a repair flow chart for that code and go threw the repair chart. Now, i have a 2000 Chevy Blazer S-10 style 4. Given the gas cap's age, you may just want to replace it as the seal may be dry and leaking which would give you a low pressure signal. If the sensor was reading high voltage and that disappears when the sensor is unplugged, check for proper ground and ensure you have 5-volt reference voltage.
Check for a short to ground in the 5 V Reference circuit. So check all vacuum hoses first. It didn't fix my 452. More than likely an open or a short in the sensors or solenoids, shorts blow out fuses or cause smoke, more than likely an open circuit. The emissions system used in cars is a system which is designed to restrict the amount of pollution cars produce. When a spark is spread out over more then one cylinder, it doesn't fire correctly and that is causing it to bog out. If you have a trouble code setting which says there is a circuit fault, it means that there is a problem with something in the circuit.